LAVAGNE

A short stop on the way to La Spezia.

The rocks at the entrance to Portofino Bay

Lavagne is a huge marina and has significant boat repair facilities but the town was fairly ordinary. Many of these towns appear to be tired and in economic decline.

VIAREGGIO

We arrived at the port of Viareggio with high hopes for an amazing experience in the so-called  ‘Pearl of the Tyrrhenian’. It has, in fact been anything but. 

Our boat on the last pontoon

Our first disappointment was being given a mooring on the last pontoon nearly a kilometre from the main esplanade. Although we tried to negotiate a better spot, it seems that offices are always closed, no-one understands English and basically the port is geared towards the huge super yachts and private clubs. No wifi at all and having to pay for showers added to the initial let down.

Looking towards the canal

Opening the bridge over the canal

So we reluctantly settled in and went sightseeing. Restaurants were open for lunch, but not much else. We discovered that most shops shut between 12 and 3pm, but there are still many shops shut till 4pm. Perhaps we’re expected to have really long lunches!!

The city stretches for miles along the coast, with thousands of Italian tourists enjoying ‘sun therapy’ on the beaches. The city is like Glenelg on a very hot day, very crowded and commercial.

The fish and chip boat by the river edge

We decided to stay for a few days as we seem to be ahead of schedule and could not contemplate 4 weeks in Corsica! 

Mediterranean weather changes constantly. The second day was horrible, with rain, wind and the current belting the boat so badly that a French power boater gave us a pair of springs to soften the pull on the mooring lines and so, protect the back of the boat from hitting the pontoon. 

now nearly straight!

David trying to straighten the tower

The city of Pisa is only 40 mins away so we decided to make a visit by bus. 

This was the high spot of our time in Viareggio and gave me an opportunity to pick up some gifts for home and get away from the tired old city.

 We came back to Viareggio, Anne had a haircut and David picked up the stainless steel for the wind generator he had left at the welders (at no charge as they thought we were from one of the super yachts nearby!) 

Next stop Livorno, or Leghorn as the rest of the world calls it.

FEZZANO

 

Entering the very narrow strait to La Spezia

The old town at the entrance

After a very disappointing visit to Porto Mirabello who wanted to charge us E120 for a mooring 1 km from the shore and up against a huge cement pontoon, we moved around the bay, found the small marina ‘Fezzano’ and quickly settled in to the way of life there . 

The Fezzano clubrooms

Enjoying the beautiful marina views

The marina was superb. We were welcomed into the clubrooms with full use of modern showers, free wifi and unbelievable coffee. This was the sort of town you could live in. The streets were well kept and it seemed that everyone knew each other. Each morning we enjoyed a warm croissant and coffee (2.50Euros) and then spent the rest of the day exploring.

Small boats at the quay

Looking towards the town

Stuffed mussels at the small Fezzano restaurant

We decided to visit La Spezia by local bus and could not get back to Fezzano quick enough. It was such a disappointment to find dirty, graffiti filled streets, shops empty and nothing worth visiting. Even McDonalds was empty !!

In the afternoon a group of vintage cars and owners rolled up to the marina for coffee and cake, then quickly moved on. There were some very unusual Italian vehicles in amongst the usual MGs and Bugattis.

The Car rally

The town park

The marina by night

With a little sadness we left Fezzano the next morning for Viareggio. David even got to have a sail!!

GENOA

We all felt fairly privileged to sail into Genoa. the idea that we were sailing into the same port as Christopher Columbus did hundreds of years ago was quite awe inspiring. The port is now huge and very much a working harbour. Even though there are hundreds of yachts moored in the port, they shrink in importance to the massive industrial tankers and cargo boats that fill the harbour.

Our mooring was exceptional, modern and close to facilities, which by the way were a bit over the top (automatic fragrance dispensed as you walked into the bathrooms). As chance would have it we met some delightful exAussies in the boat next to us. We're indebted to Michael and his partner for their generous loan of an internet dongle and their good company while we were there. Without it we would have found keeping in touch with home really difficult.

The two days were spent exploring the city with Martin and Merrilee, eating the most amazing local dishes and generally having a great time.

the gorgeous waitress at the farinata cafe

An incredible restoration

David and I spent a few hours keeping our cultural side alive by visiting  the Doges palaces and art galleries. The wealthy Genoese noblemen had no problems displaying their grandiose wealth.

It was quite sad to see so many beautiful palaces in the old city had been destroyed by the allies during the 2nd WW although the city has rebuilt most of the bombed areas and is conserving those that can be saved.



Many beautiful buildings now have the top halves restored while the bottom levels are original. Where cornices and carved sculptures cannot be replaced 'trompe L'oeil' has been used quite successfully.

the courtyard of a city palazzo

The views from the top of one building were breathtaking.












Sadly, Martin and Merrilee left the boat during our last morning in Genoa as they are travelling on to other places. We will certainly miss them.

SAVONE

 

On the way to Savone

Merrilee enjoying the incredibly pleasant weather

What a pleasant surprise to arrive in such a picturesque fishing harbour. The town of Savano is one of those that you dream about – a small fishing port surrounded by ancient and new buildings with very little evidence of being spoilt by the tourist trade.

Coming into the port we passed by old shacks and dozens of fishing boats and were quite surprised to find less than 150 yachts in the port. (we 're usually confronted by thousands!)

When we arrived we were greeted by a friendly ‘capitaine’ who arranged to have the bridge opened for us to enter the port and who made every effort to make us welcome. We felt completely at home and spent the next day sampling the coffee, exploring the port and shopping for tea. 

The city gives you an immediate feeling of comfort and, being so close to the activity makes it easy to wander on and off the boat for shopping and services. The fish and  market opened early next morning and so we were able to stock up on fresh sardines and fish for the next night's tea.

Martin, Merrilee and David choosing fish

The city itself is very quaint. Old, ancient structures can still be found relatively intact, while relatively recent sculptures seem quite common in the streets and on the port wharf.

The bronze mermaid lying next to the boats

A 'blue' dog on the footpath - no idea why!

Heading for the bridge

Coming out of the harbour the next day day was a little daunting as after we passed under the bridge the huge size of the 'Costa Atlantic' made us feel like we were in Lilliput land.

We left the port with some feelings of regret as I'm sure we all felt we'd love to live there, but we had to move on......................

LOANO

On the way to Loano

Such a beautiful, unknown (to us) city. The marina was exceptional with a welcoming party waiting for us at the dock ready to help us tie up and for once, placed us right next to the facilities.

We have loved being here. Even though the fees were steep, we really appreciated the quality of pontoons, bathrooms (bidets for the first time!) and just the impeccable state of everything.

The view from the top floor of the yacht club

Our boat (blue shade) in the marina

Some stunning buildings on the waterfront

The new club structure that houses the immaculate bathrooms

 We found a great little cafe on the seafront and spent some hours enjoying the local mussels,sardines and pasta at reasonable prices.

The seafront is packed with private beaches, each one beautifully set up to provide a 'perfect' beach experience. 

White sand is brought in and laid over the grey rocks - some even have paths laid down to the water edge.
Behind the esplanade is a string of shops catering for every need. We wandered through the alleys and visited some spectacular churches.

It was surprising to see so many buildings decorated with ornate patterns and Trompe L'Oeil'. It seemed as though there had been a concerted effort to improve the appearance of the town.

Decorated eaves on a huge 3 story house.

After a very pleasant, restful stay we moved on next morning to Porto Savone.

IMPERIA

Coming into Imperia

We passed some beautiful villages as we sailed into Imperia.  It was quite delightful to see the yachts in the harbour, including a line of small yachts being towed back home across the glassy sea.

After a beautiful gentle sail  we arrived at the marina, only to find the town was an hours walk away.

orange trees lining the street

looking through to the marina

Surprisingly, the streets are very clean, free of graffiti and quite beautiful. It felt strange to see orange trees full of fruit lining the streets. 

 Marty enjoying the beautiful Med

The one disappointment with Imperia was the distance of the marina from the town and the rather sterile environment we paid a lot for.

SAN REMO

We woke next morning excited to see Martin and Merrilee join us on our boat. Once on board, the four of us set off for San Remo, a very large port north of Nice.The day began with calm warm breezes and we sailed with a light wind until mid afternoon when the weather turned somewhat cool and damp.

on the way to San Remo

We explored San Remo in the afternoon and were pleasantly surprised by the quaint back streets and alleyways that ran through the old quarter. It felt like you were stepping back in time.
Next morning we set off again for the next Italian marina along the coast 'Porto Imperia', reputed to be the place the Romans stayed at.

the marina