LIVORNO (LEGHORN)

We last visited Livorno in 1989 and left being fairly unimpressed. This time the feeling is different. Everything about the city, the port and the general atmosphere is positive. We've had some of the best experiences in Livorno and feel completely relaxed and 'at home'.

Our first impression was that of the entry port. We dreaded it. So many stories we were told about it being to busy, dangerous and not worth visiting were untrue. Admittedly, the sight of huge cruisers near the marina were rather challenging although they didn't even cause the slightest ripple to our mooring.

The Corsica/Sardinia ferry sits side by side to the mega cruisers and a 60m yacht.

Will it Fit? No its just an illusion.

Once in our mooring, which by the way was very reasonable in price, we set about exploring the city and sampling the coffee. It is so good to sit down to an expresso that has strength and flavour and know that each time you order it will be great.

The first time we ventured into the main town centre the walk was a little challenging. The capitaine at the marina suggested we take our dinghy up the canals and do our shopping by the water highway.
So off we went and had the time of our lives.

The first  bridge to pass under to the canal

David at the dinghy helm

Nearing the island in the canal

One of the smaller canals

The widest bridge in Europe

Looking up to the roadway from under the bridge

Beautiful buildings lining the canal

Once up the canal, we moored our boat and walked up to the huge market. This was was quite an experience. The undercover building seemed endless, housed everything from fish to meats to vegetables and fruit. Then we moved outside to find even more streets full of produce. Prices were very reasonable and quality was brilliant.

We bought a kilo of the biggest mussels for 3Euro and enjoyed the best dinner back on board. Heaven!

The fish market

Self serve wine bottling

The bride and groom

The busy atmosphere of the market streets was interrupted for some minutes by a newly married couple walking through. Spontaneous clapping erupted as they made their way past the market stalls.

Our dinghy moored at the bottom of the small wharf

The market stalls sold everything from clothes to cottons and seemed to be doing a brisk trade.


We'll be staying here for a few more days as the weather to Corsica still looks threatening (I admit I'm a bit of a wimp!)

LAVAGNE

A short stop on the way to La Spezia.

The rocks at the entrance to Portofino Bay

Lavagne is a huge marina and has significant boat repair facilities but the town was fairly ordinary. Many of these towns appear to be tired and in economic decline.

VIAREGGIO

We arrived at the port of Viareggio with high hopes for an amazing experience in the so-called  ‘Pearl of the Tyrrhenian’. It has, in fact been anything but. 

Our boat on the last pontoon

Our first disappointment was being given a mooring on the last pontoon nearly a kilometre from the main esplanade. Although we tried to negotiate a better spot, it seems that offices are always closed, no-one understands English and basically the port is geared towards the huge super yachts and private clubs. No wifi at all and having to pay for showers added to the initial let down.

Looking towards the canal

Opening the bridge over the canal

So we reluctantly settled in and went sightseeing. Restaurants were open for lunch, but not much else. We discovered that most shops shut between 12 and 3pm, but there are still many shops shut till 4pm. Perhaps we’re expected to have really long lunches!!

The city stretches for miles along the coast, with thousands of Italian tourists enjoying ‘sun therapy’ on the beaches. The city is like Glenelg on a very hot day, very crowded and commercial.

The fish and chip boat by the river edge

We decided to stay for a few days as we seem to be ahead of schedule and could not contemplate 4 weeks in Corsica! 

Mediterranean weather changes constantly. The second day was horrible, with rain, wind and the current belting the boat so badly that a French power boater gave us a pair of springs to soften the pull on the mooring lines and so, protect the back of the boat from hitting the pontoon. 

now nearly straight!

David trying to straighten the tower

The city of Pisa is only 40 mins away so we decided to make a visit by bus. 

This was the high spot of our time in Viareggio and gave me an opportunity to pick up some gifts for home and get away from the tired old city.

 We came back to Viareggio, Anne had a haircut and David picked up the stainless steel for the wind generator he had left at the welders (at no charge as they thought we were from one of the super yachts nearby!) 

Next stop Livorno, or Leghorn as the rest of the world calls it.

FEZZANO

 

Entering the very narrow strait to La Spezia

The old town at the entrance

After a very disappointing visit to Porto Mirabello who wanted to charge us E120 for a mooring 1 km from the shore and up against a huge cement pontoon, we moved around the bay, found the small marina ‘Fezzano’ and quickly settled in to the way of life there . 

The Fezzano clubrooms

Enjoying the beautiful marina views

The marina was superb. We were welcomed into the clubrooms with full use of modern showers, free wifi and unbelievable coffee. This was the sort of town you could live in. The streets were well kept and it seemed that everyone knew each other. Each morning we enjoyed a warm croissant and coffee (2.50Euros) and then spent the rest of the day exploring.

Small boats at the quay

Looking towards the town

Stuffed mussels at the small Fezzano restaurant

We decided to visit La Spezia by local bus and could not get back to Fezzano quick enough. It was such a disappointment to find dirty, graffiti filled streets, shops empty and nothing worth visiting. Even McDonalds was empty !!

In the afternoon a group of vintage cars and owners rolled up to the marina for coffee and cake, then quickly moved on. There were some very unusual Italian vehicles in amongst the usual MGs and Bugattis.

The Car rally

The town park

The marina by night

With a little sadness we left Fezzano the next morning for Viareggio. David even got to have a sail!!

GENOA

We all felt fairly privileged to sail into Genoa. the idea that we were sailing into the same port as Christopher Columbus did hundreds of years ago was quite awe inspiring. The port is now huge and very much a working harbour. Even though there are hundreds of yachts moored in the port, they shrink in importance to the massive industrial tankers and cargo boats that fill the harbour.

Our mooring was exceptional, modern and close to facilities, which by the way were a bit over the top (automatic fragrance dispensed as you walked into the bathrooms). As chance would have it we met some delightful exAussies in the boat next to us. We're indebted to Michael and his partner for their generous loan of an internet dongle and their good company while we were there. Without it we would have found keeping in touch with home really difficult.

The two days were spent exploring the city with Martin and Merrilee, eating the most amazing local dishes and generally having a great time.

the gorgeous waitress at the farinata cafe

An incredible restoration

David and I spent a few hours keeping our cultural side alive by visiting  the Doges palaces and art galleries. The wealthy Genoese noblemen had no problems displaying their grandiose wealth.

It was quite sad to see so many beautiful palaces in the old city had been destroyed by the allies during the 2nd WW although the city has rebuilt most of the bombed areas and is conserving those that can be saved.



Many beautiful buildings now have the top halves restored while the bottom levels are original. Where cornices and carved sculptures cannot be replaced 'trompe L'oeil' has been used quite successfully.

the courtyard of a city palazzo

The views from the top of one building were breathtaking.












Sadly, Martin and Merrilee left the boat during our last morning in Genoa as they are travelling on to other places. We will certainly miss them.

SAVONE

 

On the way to Savone

Merrilee enjoying the incredibly pleasant weather

What a pleasant surprise to arrive in such a picturesque fishing harbour. The town of Savano is one of those that you dream about – a small fishing port surrounded by ancient and new buildings with very little evidence of being spoilt by the tourist trade.

Coming into the port we passed by old shacks and dozens of fishing boats and were quite surprised to find less than 150 yachts in the port. (we 're usually confronted by thousands!)

When we arrived we were greeted by a friendly ‘capitaine’ who arranged to have the bridge opened for us to enter the port and who made every effort to make us welcome. We felt completely at home and spent the next day sampling the coffee, exploring the port and shopping for tea. 

The city gives you an immediate feeling of comfort and, being so close to the activity makes it easy to wander on and off the boat for shopping and services. The fish and  market opened early next morning and so we were able to stock up on fresh sardines and fish for the next night's tea.

Martin, Merrilee and David choosing fish

The city itself is very quaint. Old, ancient structures can still be found relatively intact, while relatively recent sculptures seem quite common in the streets and on the port wharf.

The bronze mermaid lying next to the boats

A 'blue' dog on the footpath - no idea why!

Heading for the bridge

Coming out of the harbour the next day day was a little daunting as after we passed under the bridge the huge size of the 'Costa Atlantic' made us feel like we were in Lilliput land.

We left the port with some feelings of regret as I'm sure we all felt we'd love to live there, but we had to move on......................